Morocco: Aromas from my Grandma’s Kitchen
Peering through the taxi’s passenger window as we passed through the gates of Marrakesh, I captured glimpses of several women's faces that reminded me of my own grandmother. Born in a small village near Casablanca almost a century ago, Zari was our family’s matriarch and proud mother of twelve. Zari was a woman of many talents, but her greatest gift was balancing light-hearted humor with deep wisdom. Whether musing on the meaning of a life well-lived or divulging kitchen secrets, Zari’s flair captured the attention, imagination, and admiration of those who had the privilege of knowing her. Couscous was a regular staple growing up in my household. This humble ingredient can be elevated to heavenly status by the perfect proportions of spice, savory meat or vegetables, and culinary savvy.
During our food tour in Morocco, we took an excursion to a remote Berber village focused on the art of couscous and the chefs behind the scenes. During a hands-on cooking course, we learned the nuances of preparing couscous with several village ladies, many of whom were sisters. Their traditional garb and kind smiles belied their sharp entrepreneurial drive and proud independence. Not only did they host visits to mouth-watering feasts, but these women also ran a successful consumer goods business, packaging couscous for supermarkets and local restaurants. What an incredible juxtaposition of tradition and modernity!
The tagine is synonymous with Moroccan cuisine. These oftentimes beautifully decorated terracotta cooking pots magically transform vegetables, meats, and fish into savory dishes on top of a charcoal fire. During our trip, we had the opportunity to visit Amal, a Morocco-based nonprofit that empowers women through cooking education. The mission of this organization is to equip women with valuable skills to join the workforce. Countless women have launched new lives and careers through this program. Amal acts locally and thinks globally. When a devastating earthquake rocked Morocco last year, they partnered with World Central Kitchen to feed countless victims of this natural disaster.
Moroccans pride themselves on hospitality, with our tea ceremony serving as the main beverage to warm bellies and hearts. A mixture of Chinese gunpowder tea, fresh mint, and ample sugar, the smell and flavor transport me to fond memories of long, lazy afternoons with family. What struck me on this trip was the notable lack of syrupy sweet tea. Our hosts proudly informed us that Moroccans are increasingly aware of the health risks of too much sugar, and have cut back on the number of sugar cubes. This health-conscious trend is taking off across the country, which put a smile on my husband’s face, who is a doctor.
Our whirlwind trip to Morocco brought back fond memories of my grandmother and my experience growing up in a Moroccan family. What struck me most was the delicate balancing act of preserving culture and tradition while opening up to the changing world. Although recipes and gender roles in society are evolving, the legendary hospitality and generosity to guests and travelers remain as strong as ever. This magical country, its people, and its cuisine will forever hold a special place in my heart.
Moroccan spice market
