Italy: A Winter Wonderland
A Venetian winter’s day
Salcheto’s Taste Laboratory
The perfect trio
Harry’s Bar in Venice is the Birthplace of the Bellini
Negroni is poured to perfection at Harry’s
Exploring the diverse world of wine at Roscioli
Parmigiano in Montepulciano
Legendary Caffè Florian
Ristorante Glam pushes innovation to edge in Venice
Embarking on a winter journey through Italy whisks you away to a more intimate, introspective version of this vibrant country. Without the summer throngs of tourists, you feel the heartbeat of the cities, unhurriedly savor the nuances of their cuisine, and connect with this kind and hospitable people that undoubtedly make Italy one of the top visited destinations, globally.
Venice: History and Cuisine in Perfect Harmony
Venice in December is a dream—misty mornings on serene canals, crisp, refreshing midday Spritzes and hearty flavors that warm you from the inside out. We ate our way through Venice, enjoying dish after dish at unassuming yet world class restaurants. The food was oriented around seafood, with one dish that stood out was the Baccalà Mantecato, a creamy spread of salted cod and olive oil. It’s traditionally served with polenta or crusty bread, a type of cicchetti, or bar food. This humble dish has its roots in a 15th-century Venetian shipwreck on the Norwegian island of Røst, where sailors learned the art of salting and drying cod. It’s an extreme example of how Venice has always been a crossroads of culture and trade, adopting and transforming ingredients into something unmistakably its own. We stayed at the Gritti Palace, a storied, legendary hotel that has hosted luminaries like Hemingway and Princess Diana. Arriving by gondola feels almost theatrical, with the blend of history and luxury makes it unforgettable.
Modena: The Heart and Stomach of Italian Gastronomy
From Venice, we traveled to Modena, where the culinary landscape takes center stage. Our destination was Casa Maria Luigia, the rustic-chic retreat of global phenom chef Massimo Bottura. Dining here felt less like a meal and more like a leisurely and indulgent dialogue with Italian culinary traditions. From its deconstructed lasagna to colorful stunning risotto, each dish celebrated cutting edge food innovation and an homage to heritage in equal measure. Modena and neighboring Bologna argue over the title of the birthplace of tortellini, so it was only right that this beautiful meal was punctuated by a bowl of this heavenly creation.
One revelation we had regarding Parmigiano Reggiano. What we once thought of as a hard, sharp flavored cheese revealed itself to be an intricate story of aging and craftsmanship, with distinct flavors emerging from each of its five stages of maturity. We’ll leave the details out to not ruin the mystery but suffice to sat that we will never look at this cheese again in the same way.
Tuscany: Where Wine and Sustainability Meet
Tuscany welcomed us with its rolling hills. After a long and circuitous drive, we arrived at the gorgeous Salcheto Winery. Known for its commitment to sustainability, Salcheto exemplifies how modern winemaking can honor tradition while reducing environmental impact. Touring their state-of-the-art facilities, we learned how thoughtful design and practices can minimize energy use at every step, while producing world class wine.
Dinner at the winery was a standout moment. Every ingredient was locally sourced or grown on-site, embodying the farm-to-table ethos. The winemaker’s passion was evident as he shared stories of their evolving approach to dining and winemaking, offering insight into the heart of the Montepulciano wine district. It was a reminder that sustainability and flavor should go hand in hand.
Rome: Culinary Roots and Reinvention
Rome, our final stop, is a city where every meal feels like a celebration of its rich history. Winter brings artichokes to the fore, and dishes like Carciofi alla Romana—braised artichokes stuffed with garlic and herbs—showcase their simple brilliance. Another favorite was Tonnarelli alla Gricia con Carciofi, where the earthy artichokes paired perfectly with guanciale and pecorino in a dish that elevated simple ingredients to new heights.
Of course, no trip to Rome would be complete without an indulgent dish of Carbonara pasta. While now a Roman classic, its origins are tied to American GIs during World War II, who introduced eggs, bacon, and cheese (the quitessential American breakfast) to the local pasta repertoire. Italians took these humble ingredients and turned them into something quite decadent. It’s a modern culinary parallel to Venice’s ancient Baccalà Mantecato—a story of foreign inspiration transformed into timeless "Italian" tradition.
We stayed at the Hotel de Russie, a historic gem that’s been a haven for artists and diplomats since 1816. Its secret garden and proximity to landmarks like the Spanish Steps make it a serene yet central base for exploring the bustling city. We capped off the experience enjoying a wine tasting at Roscioli. Their brilliant (American) owner Lindsay Gabbard regaled us with her journey, as well as deepened our appreciation for the incredible complexity and nuance to Italian wine.
The Quiet Allure of Winter in Italy
Winter in Italy isn’t just a season—it’s a different lens through which to view the country’s beauty and soul. The quieter streets, seasonal dishes, and intimate connections with locals and their culture create an experience that lingers long after the journey ends. Whether savoring Venice’s seafood, Modena’s culinary artistry, or Rome’s hearty disches, every moment feels like a “regalo” a gift—a chance to see Italy as it truly is.
